the alpinist

the annapurna sanctuary is a mountaineering base camp located around 5 days walk into the glacier covered peaks of the nepal himalaya. the 8000m annapurna I is surrounded by 7 other soaring rock gods, creating a glacial basin in the middle, from where attempts at the numerous peaks can be made, in and around the avalanche zones, which are many. annapurna base camp was the destination of the 10 day annapurna sanctuary trek i just finished, and its amazing. little wonder it is so popular.

it is the start of spring and base camp, at a little over 4300m, was freezing. covered in snow and glaciers, it made quite a change from the tropical forrests i walked through, and up, for 5 days to get there. its pretty seriously up and up, the nepalese love their stairs and suspension bridges. given the conditions and scenery it attracts a lot of trekkers and climbers from all over the world, with serious gear to tackle the conditions. you must be a walking harmony of equipment, preparedness and light weight.

tim: "What's that"

french climber: "you mean this?"

tim: "yes"

french climber: "its our GPS. global positioning system."

tim: "uh huh. and those?"

french climber: "these are carbon fibre, telescopic trekking stocks."

tim: "and what about those?"

french climber: "blizzard goggles."

tim: "i see. and those?"

french climber: "cramp-ons. ice climbing spikes."

tim: "hmmm."

french climber: "what's that?"

tim: "you mean this?"

french climber: "yes"

tim: "a didjeridoo."

reconnections

almost 3 weeks in kathmandu can start to wear the travel urges down a little, particularly in thamel, where the food and hotels are so good and cheap, with live music every night - i even found some reasonably good jazz. just when you think "right. time to move on...ummm...perhaps after just one more day of tea and dal in the sunshine." and before you know it, its day after day of tea and dal and sunshine. the "traveling" seems to have stopped.

but do not loose faith! after a great few weeks of reconnecting with people i have met on my travels, a large number of whom have ended up in kathmandu at the same time, it's off to the mountains again (what am i supposed to do? its the himalayas for pete's sake!). i will miss falling asleep to the sound of the nepalese rock band across the road, and their particularly idiosyncratic version of i shot the sheriff, wondering if they might be rare urban maoists.

somehow i don't think i will escape the relentless "my friend, my friend! smoke? hashish?" i think its part of the nepalese/india deal. oh to be a teenager again.