big cities in little china - pt 1

i've been a little unsure of what to say about china. when i formulate one view from a series of experiences, it isn't too long before something else happens to contradict that view. perhaps a country of contrasts is the best way to put, based on the events up until this point, at least.

shanghai

all advice prior to arrival was tales of a city in the throngs of a crescendo. a social and cultural boom was going on, and you're a damn fool if you don't get in there and see what it's all about. business is booming, the entertainment industry is booming, and the nightlife is going off. so, obviously i arrived with fairly modest expectations...

well, all of the above might well be true in one form or another, but it doesn't seem to mean that life is any better for most of the people who live in shanghai. it may be that most of the "boom" is coming from the arrival of the new elite, a microscopic byproduct of the market economy, with gigantic amounts of money. but thats more of an impression, than anything i'd like to cast in stone.

on an experiential level, the french concession has a flavour of old shanghai, that is immediately contrasted by the huge modern office towers and hotels that are springing up as quickly as the land can be bought. someone told me that 20 years ago, the tallest building in shanghai was 8 stories, and it was really old, in fact i think it was a bell tower. then in 20 years literally thousands of high rise buildings have gone up. its like they didn't have time for the 1920s-1950s mid rise phase that most other cities went though, they just went straight for the money shot. the result is basically dilapidated old single story near-slumlike building next to monolithic glass bank headquarters and back again next door.

the nightlife lived up to expectation, however, as a couple of bars and restaurants we frequented were absolutely stunning. it turned out that the highlight of shanghai, was indeed the social boom, but had it not been for my lovely friends and hosts, i may not have experienced it at all. its not a big "come one and come all, and shanghai will show you a good time" kind of vibe. its great places to hang out with great people in the midst of a pulsating, overwhelming chaotic and mildly depressing metropolis.